The author believes any shot approaching 200 yards is a long shot for a muzzleloader. Serious practice is the only way to make such shots consistently--and ethically.

With a 100-yard zero established, now move the target downrange to check where the other descending aiming points correspond to the downrange performance of your load. You can make a good guess as to how far to move it by looking through the scope at a target (at 100 yards) with a one-inch grid. With the primary aiming point on the center of a target, note how far below the center the next aiming point is located. If you know the trajectory of your load, you can make an educated guess at where to place the target to correspond with the second aiming point.

For example, with the load mentioned above and a 100-yard zero, the point of impact will be about six inches low at 175 yards, which is a good starting point for the second aiming point on most reticles. (For the record, that load will be ten inches low at 200 yards and twenty-one inches low at 250 yards.)

There's no point in an MAPR scope unless you have a good laser rangefinder so you can know exactly how far off your target is. Now fire three shots at the target from a bench rest using the second aiming point. If the group is too high, move the target farther away; if it's low, move the target closer until the group is centered on the aiming point. Fire a few more groups to confirm, and record the distance for that aiming point. Repeat this process with the next lower aiming point until you have determined the actual zero distance mark that you may use within ethical shooting distances.

This will probably take several range sessions, and you'll likely note some point of impact variation with changing temperatures and weather conditions. Once you have your points of impact worked out, be sure to fine tune them during calm weather.

Using these reticles afield is not at all difficult. For ease of comparison, let's say that your first aiming point is zeroed at 100 yards, the second corresponds at 175 yards and the third corresponds at 225 yards. Obviously, at those distances you simply hold on with the proper aiming point. If the range does not exactly correspond with an aiming point, and usually it will not, split the difference. For example, if your rangefinder says the deer is 200 yards, center the spot where you wish the bullet to hit between the second and third aiming points.

Tracking In Low Light

One of the best tracking aids I've found for following blood trails is a high intensity SureFire flashlight. Blood simply glows when hit with this light. It's helpful even if it's not yet dark. I was recently following a skimpy blood trail of a deer I shot and hit too low. The light was fading but it was not yet dark enough to turn on the flashlight, but I did anyway. Until that point, the trail consisted of a drop here and there, and tracking was very slow going. But, when the light hit it, the trail suddenly became very clear and I could follow it at a fast walk. It was amazing the amount of blood that I could see that was previously hidden in the ground litter. It was like the drops were suddenly charged with electricity. I'm happy to report that the backstraps from that deer made it to our table for Christmas dinner. www.surefire.com

Remember, multiple-aiming-point reticles are hunting tools, not crutches. It's important that you have the shooting skills needed to utilize these new optics and that you practice, practice, practice. You can't buy long-range shooting skills. You must earn them.